A factory reset returns a Mac to the condition it shipped in, which in plain terms means every file, photo, app and setting is wiped. So the first task is never the reset — it's rescuing anything you want to keep. Copy it to an external drive, run a complete Time Machine backup, or confirm it has genuinely finished syncing to iCloud (a stalled 'Uploading…' is not the same as done). On a current Mac the storage is soldered to the logic board and encrypted, so there is no easy undo if you wipe first and remember later — back up while you still can.
Then unlink the Mac from your Apple Account. Sign out of Find My Mac (System Settings → your name → iCloud), sign out of iMessage inside the Messages app, and deauthorise the machine in the Music and TV apps so you don't burn one of your account's authorisations. Signing out of Find My also lifts Activation Lock — the trap that otherwise leaves the next user stuck at a login screen they can't clear.
If your Mac runs Apple Silicon (any M-series MacBook Air, MacBook Pro, iMac, Mac mini or Mac Studio) or is an Intel Mac with the T2 security chip, and it's on macOS Monterey or newer, there's a built-in reset that mirrors the iPhone's. Open System Settings → General → Transfer or Reset → Erase All Content and Settings (on Monterey it sits under the System Preferences menu). Type in your password, allow it to sign you out everywhere, and confirm.
It's quick and thorough because it doesn't grind through overwriting the disk — it throws away the encryption keys. Your data was already encrypted at rest, so discarding the key makes the lot unreadable in an instant, after which the Mac lays down a clean copy of macOS and restarts at the 'Hello' screen. This is Apple's recommended way to prepare a MacBook or iMac for sale or hand-on, and for most people it's the only method they'll ever touch.
Older Intel Macs without a T2 chip have no 'Erase All Content' switch, so you wipe them by hand from Recovery Mode. Shut the Mac down, then boot into Recovery: on an Intel Mac hold Command-R from power-on until the Apple logo shows; on an Apple Silicon Mac (should you go this way instead) hold the power button until 'Loading startup options' appears, then pick Options. Either lands you in the macOS Utilities window.
Choose Disk Utility, select the internal disk (usually 'Macintosh HD'), hit Erase and format it as APFS on any recent macOS. Quit back out and pick Reinstall macOS to lay a fresh system onto the empty drive. One symptom worth naming here: a folder with a flashing question mark at boot just means the Mac can't find a system to start from — Recovery Mode is where you go to erase and reinstall, or, if the files still matter, to stop and image the drive instead of wiping it.
A factory reset and a secure erase aren't automatically one and the same. On any Apple Silicon or T2 Mac — and on any Mac with FileVault switched on — the data is encrypted, so binning the key (which Erase All Content does) is a true secure erase: the old contents can't be reassembled. On an older Intel Mac with a plain hard drive and FileVault off, a standard Disk Utility erase mostly just clears the index, and a determined forensic pass could still lift remnants — so before passing that machine on, turn FileVault on first or run a full erase rather than the quick one.
The other side of that coin matters just as much: because a proper reset is designed to make your old data unrecoverable, it will not preserve or 'restore' anything for you. There's no secret copy and no bin that outlives it. Whatever you didn't back up before the wipe is, on a modern Mac, effectively gone — which is the entire reason this guide opens with backing up.
If you've reached this part because a Mac has already been reset (by you or someone else), or because it won't start at all and you need the files rather than a clean install, you've crossed from 'reset' into data recovery — and the two are handled very differently. A Mac that fails to boot but whose storage is physically sound is often highly recoverable; a drive that has actually been erased is a far harder, sometimes impossible job, which is exactly why we keep repeating: back up before you reset. Either way, stop using the Mac so nothing new overwrites what might remain.
We recover from Apple machines all the time — see MacBook data recovery and iMac data recovery for how each is handled, and what data recovery actually costs for honest pricing. One hard truth, said plainly: on Apple Silicon and T2 Macs the storage is soldered to the logic board and encrypted, so if that board dies with no backup even a lab may be unable to help — the best insurance by far is a backup made before anything goes wrong. Already in trouble? Start the free online diagnostic and we'll tell you honestly what's possible.
Back up before you reset. Both Erase All Content and Settings and a Recovery-Mode wipe delete your files for good — and on Apple Silicon and T2 Macs the drive is encrypted, so there's no undo button. Get anything you need off the Mac first.
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